Perhentian island getaway

I confess to having been worried that five days on a remote island with nothing to do but snorkel, read and play Scrabble would get BO-RING.   It is certainly not our normal travel style. But it was all lovely and wonderfully relaaaaaaaxing.

T pondering next move

Besides, there was unexpected entertainment: cool looking monkeys (black with white around the eyes) in the morning, and flying foxes in the evening.  Flying foxes! [sorry no pix]. Apparently they are squirrels. Heck, flying squirrels! They are very oddly shaped--tiny heads and seemingly huge lower legs with a tiny tail they like to stick up/out.  Very odd.  In flight, previously hidden "wings" expand to 2 feet, allowing for graceful drops of 15 - 20 feet between trees.  Here are the monkeys, who passed by on a regular route through several trees and chalet tops each morning.

But the best entertainment was under water.  Last year I managed to forget the camera, which we bought specifically for it's ability to take underwater photos...  These from just steps off the shore to 100 yards/meters:

some coral is returning to a colorful state

Sea creature

The Perhentian islands are in a marine sanctuary, and we were glad to know of the "no flipper" rule to protect the coral.  Sadly, this year we noticed a number of people wearing flippers, even boat operators.

We stayed at the Reef Chalets, basic, convenient, and set in a lovely garden right on the beach

Beach bum?

Beach bum 2

On the way to the best snorkeling spot, a sign for the boat taxi to different beaches and the other island.Second line of the sign reads "under coconut tree".

We took a snorkeling day trip to the uninhabited Rawa islands.

Loads of fab fish!

And coral

Rawa is known for its Bumphead Parrot fish, aka Napoleon.  A yard/meter long!

I love the patterns sunlight makes in the water from underneath

And the colors of the giant clams

We saw lots of sea slugs, mostly grey with black bits but in one area they were all pink--very penis-y.

Under the boat:

Back at our island (Perhentian Besar), some fishing boats:

To reach them, a nice jungle walk along the coast

Back home, snorkel burn!

Angkor Wat

Chinese New Year break allowed your intrepid travelers to jet off to Siem Reap, Cambodia, a fairly short jaunt northward about 1500 km/900 miles.  The trip was partly inspired by a planned rendez-vous with two old friends from Washington.

Our first glimpse of Angkor Wat was startling in that the silhouette is so familiar, from the Cambodian flag.  It was also from behind some of the many, many tour groups visiting the site, busy always but especially so for Chinese New Year.

We were surprised to learn that there are actually numerous ancient sites spread over a wide area.  In the immediate vicinity of Angkor Wat are several large sites. The best known after Angkor Wat is the tree-tangled Ta Prohm where Lara Croft/Angelina Jolie were famously filmed.  Farther afield we were able to visit the Rouluos temples, Banteay Srei, Bang Melea and the Koh Ker site, which itself covers 81 sq. km/31 sq. miles. Definitely a happening part of the world in the 10th-12th century.

At Angkor, here is detail of one of the many, meters-long carved stone reliefs:

Tom at Angkor

And another ancient treasure, above.

These figures (some new) line a bridge across a moat,  guarding an entry gate.

More, in Angkor (um, or possibly Bayon).

T and I traveled by tuktuk and did the "petit circuit" the first day before our friends arrived. 

A word about local tuktuks:  they are of a different design than we've seen in other countries. Rather than three-wheeled one piece two-stroke putt-putt motors, these are actually motorcycles with a two-wheeled trailer, easily removed. Smart design!  And a quieter ride too.

Tom alighting

These are at T Prohm:

In two or three of the larger sites we were serenaded by musicians, many of them landmine victims, hoping for donations.  Lovely music.

Exploring is hot work. Time for a Cambodian coke or perhaps a local beer?

Our traveling companions arrived and we began our joint explorations in the outer circuit, traveling by car for two days. Here is Debbie with some new friends.

And Tom with Peter

At Banteay Srei (I think):

window detail

watch out K!

Bathroom break.  It's important to know the rules:

Tom, having been inspired:

Debbie and Peter in good form

 

Templed out...  Figures lining the walkway are "churning the sea of milk" which is a common theme in these parts, from Hindu mythology, symbolizing a process leading to eternal life.

Back in town, we passed on visiting the Hard Rock Siem Reap.

and on buying a croc, or parts thereof.

Next day we were off again, this time to Bang Malea and Koh Ker, 125 km/75 miles from Siem Reap.  We stopped along the way for some yummy coconut rice cooked in bamboo. There were many vendors all in a row, selling the same thing.

At  Prasat Neang Khmau (pretty sure)

All the sites had signs like this one, saying the area had been cleared of mines. Apparently a large area remains inaccessible to tourists (and everyone else) in need of demining.

At Koh Ker, which looks very different than other sites--Mayan-esque!

Our driver and Tom, at the top

Back to Siem Reap and our last evening.  Dinner at a cafe staffed by former street kids. Best meal we had, and great service.

Tom's meal was voted most wonderful. He'd ordered the national dish, "amok," We had tried it several times but this was far and away the tastiest and best presented.

Evening tuktuk ride 

Bye Cambodia!