Chiang Mai and Chiang Dao

It is not a direct flight from Penang to Chiang Mai, so have to change in KL's new budget airlines airport.  We luck out making the tricky transfer in the new, sprawling terminal by innocently asking a worker which way to the international transfer area?  Signage is HORRIBLE, and last time we were there trying to change planes we were swallowed up by the massive shopping complex inside the airport building.  The person we asked was sitting in an idle shuttle vehicle.  He said “climb in”.  In 5 minutes we were there.  The grey hair no doubt helped.

Reading Lonely Planet in the plane, specifically the descriptions of yummy local foods we could look forward to, I wonder if T will try “loo,” a dish featuring “raw blood mixed with curry paste and served over deep-fried intestines and pork cracklings.”  Or perhaps he would go for the “naam,” fermented raw pork. 

   Going to Thailand from Malaysia reminds me of going to Georgia from Azerbaijan.  It feels more relaxed, sensible, orderly, fun, COMFORTABLE, alive, cultured even—I know I have to be careful with that one.  All places have culture, certainly Az and Malaysia are very rich culturally.  I guess I mean refined, classy maybe.

We spent day one of two in Chiang Mai walking the old city checking out some of the incredible wats (temples).   It was drizzling but that made for good walking weather, Tom skillfully navigating.  [Another sign of age?  I don't seem to care anymore when he pulls out the Lonely Planet to consult the map...]

Above:  assorted wat pix.  Sorry I lost track of what wat was wat...

At Wat Chiang Mai, the oldest of the many many many wats in the city, from the 14^th C, It features an 1800 year old crystal Buddha.  

wax monks

In some temples there are CREEPY wax figures of some dear departed monks.

Seen about town (Chiang Mai)

Moat around the old city

City walls

Day two we went out to Wat Prathat Doi Suthep, which K remembered visiting a shocking number of years ago. What she remembered were the 300 steps to the top. Ha! We were shocked to find ourselves at the top in about 10 minutes, no huffing and puffing whatsoever. The first bit of steps are low and wide, and lined with shops.  The second bit are steeper but not taxing, and lined with a majestic naga (think snake/dragon).

Jade (?) Buddha

They are fixing the roof of one structure on the temple grounds

Next day we bus it to Chiang Dao. Three to a seat, both T and I perched on seats with two parents and a toddler, 1 ½ hours.  Not bad really.  We pass numerous agricultural and educational projects supported, so large signs tell us, by the king and queen and even their son, who, as I understand it, is not nearly so well-loved as his sister but who is nevertheless next in line to succeed the aging king on the throne. We also pass a sign for an “Elephant Retirement Centre” and, later, “Elephant Training Centre.”  The bus goes all the way to Fang, which seems like a must-see destination just because of the name.  Another trip...

From the bus we get a song teow to the hotel.

Our hotel is in a rural area near the Chiang Dao Cave. Had to check out the cave.

outside the cave

We spend the whole next day walking around the area, along peaceful country lanes.

banana flower

 A monastery at the end of one road is an incredibly lovely spot.  We were warned about the 500 steps to reach it, but, again, did not have to work hard.  Some of the steps go down, and none are steep. 

meditating

Thoughtfully, a first aid kit is provided to visitors 100 or so steps in.  I gratefully help myself to a bandaid for a blister in waiting

At the top

wat selfie--is that right??

Elsewhere in the area...a 1,000 year old temple

The sky has been cloudy our whole visit. The last night, T wakes up in the middle of the night and peeks out--the STARS are out.  Wow wow wow--Milky way and all.

Such a beautiful, peaceful place. Ah and the food at the hotel's restaurant (Chian Do Nest 2) was superb, and beautifully presented.

Bye Chiang Dao!

Malaysia's political theater

Recently, it was discovered that US$700 million had been transferred from the government’s investment fund into the Prime Minister’s personal bank account.  The investment fund has not done well and is massively in debt.  

The Wall Street Journal broke this story a couple of weeks ago. The Prime Minister is trying to sue the Journal, yet he doesn’t deny the deposit to his account.  Rather he gives the explanation that it was “a gift” from a Gulf nation, for his party.  That is supposed to be OK. I heard on the radio today that the country does not have “an economic crisis, but a problem caused by negative perception.”  We are to change our perception.

After the story came out he fired the Attorney General and removed several people from the Anti-Corruption Commission. The biggest financial newspaper here was forced to temporarily stop publication. It was reported in the paper today that a task force assigned to investigate the $700 million deposit was dissolved, then reformed minus the Anti-Corruption people.

The local currency has fallen dramatically, to a 17 year low (which makes it great for foreign tourists and lousy for us who are paid in Ringgit). This on top of a new 8% goods and services tax that was introduced earlier this year.

This brand of democracy is basically one party rule, the popular opposition leader having been locked away in jail on a fabricated sodomy charge.  Sodomy charges, honestly.  Only ethnic Malays can be prime minister, so that narrows the field of suitable candidates.

Back to the "negative perception” problem...  We do get the impression we are told what to think and sometimes even what to wear—some locals (Chinese) have recently been told to cover up when they entered government buildings wearing shorts.  They were “graciously” offered cloth to cover their offensive legs.

In Azerbaijan we wouldn’t have dared make a post like this. Perhaps we will be called out for this one…  

Taiping time

One last wee trip before summer break ended. Taiping is on the mainland, just under two hours' drive from Penang.  It is the home of former tin mines, now converted into a beautiful lake area, and of the country's oldest hill station, where [privileged, foreign] people went to cool off.  Besides the lake and the hill, which is known as Bukit Larut and, formerly, Maxwell Hill, people travel to Taiping these days for its' zoo and its mangrove tour.  We went for the hill climb.

The travel guides speak of a scenic forest trail leading to a tea house at 5 kilometers, where you can refresh yourselves and make the choice whether to carry on to the top or not.

We chose a hotel very near the foot of the hill, Sentosa Villa--a very relaxing place in a large and well kept garden setting

Here is the lake

and the drive along the lake. We missed the the opportunity to take a paddle boat out.

We passed by the zoo and saw siamang (apes) walking by out front! My first sighting in Malaysia.  Escapees?

So, we started out for the hike, and when the ranger station at the foot of the hill announced, "no trail,  no tea house," we set out on the paved road.

at the ranger station

It's a private road, used only by park land rovers.  Steep, narrow, lovely foliage.  Great ferns

We found the road not as unrelenting as Penang Hill, and when we reached the defunct tea house, decided to carry on to the top of the hill.

Made it!  Six miles...

Taiping is the rainiest place in the whole country.  We were very lucky.  The rain waited until we were at the top of the hill, and had a bus shelter to sit in

We sat and watched the rain, hoping for a Land Rover to appear to take us back down--it did!

In the evening we went into Taiping town for some great hawker food.  The highlight was famous Omar"s po piah--think spring rolls but smaller and spicy. Mmmmmmmm

the master at work

The food court

And, to accompany your food, water from The Source: 

Seen in the Taiping Mall--a beauty contest

and

ah the elusive adverb

The town is charming, small, lined with old shophouses like these--well, not all with such intriguing signs):

 Back at the bungalow, our second and last evening on the porch

Back to Penang, to school and the old grind.  Our car passed a milestone--that's kilometers, but still... Hopefully it will last another two years!!