Saturday, February 16, 2008

Big, peaceful day in Beirut--14 February

We really hadn’t planned to go to the demonstration. In fact, I was planning definitely to stay away. But my cell phone had given me no news alerts, we had the day off, and the fever was catching—thousands of people, families, streaming down the streets toward the Corniche (waterfront) carrying and wearing Lebanese flags and scarves in light blue, in commemoration of Rafik Hariri’s assassination (blame Syria) three years ago today. Should we follow the throngs, we pondered. Let’s flip a coin, we decide. One toss, came up tails, a “no”. We look at each other—let’s go for 2 out of 3. Two more tosses, both heads, and off we went. I hoped no one from the UN would see me, as we had been instructed to stay home.

A steady flow of people, down the hill, along the water, heading one way toward “Martyr’s Square,” and away again, as if going to pay respects and then turning back. Loads of families with small children. A very orderly procession, police and army standing watch and, at one point, checking bags of all who passed by. A million people gathered in memory of Hariri and better times, in peace, for peace.

We didn’t go clear up to the square—it was too crowded. We looked from down below. And we felt a bit out of place. We were there to offer support, hope and faith in the future, and to be a part of history, but we were not Lebanese. We headed back, stopping for a Valentine’s Day lunch mezze at a fish restaurant on the Corniche, the only patrons there aside from one army commander having a cup of tea.

At the same hour, across town in South Beirut, people were starting to gather for the funeral of a top Hezbollah leader. We definitely wouldn’t have gone to that one. But it, too, attracted thousands, and was peaceful. Yay Beirut—you did it. When it’s the people speaking, the words are reasonable and sound. If only the leaders would listen.

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