Flying in after a 24 hour trip, to a full moon over the Mediterranean. I recall how to say “15 thousand,” the figure I will barter for a taxi ride to Hamra. The plane passes over Cyprus on the descent. I can see the eastern coastline and it’s like a map unfolding. I spot the areas lined with hotels = lights. We were there! In fact, we avoided those areas.
As we land in Beirut, the passengers clap. It is 27° C (81° F) at 10:30 pm.
As my taxi arrives, the familiar attendants at the hotel across the street recognize and greet meet me. Tomorrow I will give them almond rocas “from America”. From “my city”.
Within minutes of arriving in the apartment (found the key!), having shed my shoes, I note that the bottoms of my feet are black. I pass my hand over a counter top. In fact, all surfaces of the apartment are black! Soot from the diesel-run generators that fire up 2 or 3 times a day for hours, when the electric power is cut. What do our lungs look like?
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